La Ruta de Los Conquistadores

For Joe's complete photo gallery from La Ruta, CLICK HERE.

Photo: Joe Lawwill

One two, one two, one two…the mantra is repeated over and over through the heads of the modern conquistadors who take on the challenge of La Ruta—a brutal, three-day, 300-mile trek from coast to coast in Costa Rica. Counting pedal strokes, two at a time, is a necessity as they soldier over 30,000 vertical feet of climbing in a quest to finish what is often considered the toughest adventure race in the world.

Roman Urbina first organized La Ruta de Los Conquistadores in 1992, but the route is centuries old. It follows the path of the 16th century Spanish conqueror, Juan de Caballon. The original trip was so torturous that it took Caballon 20 years to complete. With modern technology, it now takes racers three days. But the landscape hasn't changed much in the past few hundred years. Along with unrelenting climbs, the adversity continues through deep river crossings, dense jungles, jarring rocky roads, torrential rains, hike-a-bike sections, questionable suspension bridges, miles of rough train tracks, high altitudes and little sleep. As the route passes over snow-capped volcanoes, riders worries turn from heat exhaustion to hypothermia.

Photo: Joe Lawwill

But the real story of La Ruta isn't about who wins; it's about the people who spend months and even years preparing just to survive. Men and women—ranging from teenagers to 50-year-olds—show up with a smile, and finish with an even bigger smile. Never before have I seen people so happily enduring so much pain. It was almost as if La Ruta casts some mysterious love spell over them. This love is what brought me down to Central America. In this case, it was the love my friend Matteo Boussina found 3 years ago. Matteo, also know as "Two Four" in our home turf of Marin County, California, showed up in 2001 to take on La Ruta, only to have his hopes dashed by a bad crash on the first day. Matteo abandoned, returned and finished on the final day, but the feeling of pulling out has haunted him. The next two years, a herniated disc prevented him from competing. Matteo owns Taco Jane's, a bustling tropicali restaurant at the base of Mt. Tam, which leaves little time to train, but this year, the 12th running of La Ruta, was Matteo's defining moment. He overcame the herniated disc and a 60-hour workweek and finished the brutal event.

It was the ultimate test of ability, endurance, mental strength and equipment. Riders who accept and finish the challenge of La Ruta have feelings of accomplishment and pride that compare to few things in life. They're feelings that can't be taken away by anyone or anything. For the past 10 years, I've raced in events across the globe, but La Ruta was literally a life changing experience for me—and I didn't even race.

Check out the photo essay of my trip to La Ruta. Also along for the ride was multi-time Norba national champion Marla Streb on her own quest to discover La Ruta's charm and enjoy her honeymoon with her husband Mark. Next year I'll be back, but I won't be behind the lens; count on seeing me in the saddle.

Joe Lawwill has stood atop hundreds of podiums during his long, successful race career. Although he still races occasionally, the masters' downhill world champion now uses his talent to teach others with his BikeSkills mountain bike clinics, check it out at www.bikeskills.com.

For Joe's complete photo gallery from La Ruta, CLICK HERE.