America's 10 Best Trails

It seemed like a good—no, make that a great—idea. Pick ten great trails, write ‘em up, paste in some pretty pictures and voila: instant fantastic feature. After all, who wouldn’t want to read about America’s best trails? We nodded sagely, clapped one another on the back and penciled the story into the editorial calendar. It’s when we actually sat down and began work on this article, that the hubris of this enterprise became clear.

We compiled a massive list of trails we’d ridden and just couldn’t shake from our gray matter. And then it all just sort of fell apart. What makes one trail better than another? Is sunset on a lonely desert ridgeline better or worse than terror atop a rain-slick log ride or the hum of knobbies gripping the inside line of a forested singletrack? On Monday we’d pare the list down to one set of 10 trails, then on Tuesday we’d watch Swamp Thing or eat a Snickers bar and somehow the experience would force us to go back and pick 10 totally different trails. It was a fickle, frustrating and entirely subjective business.

Here’s the list we eventually wound up with. While you might argue with the selection, we guarantee you this: there’s not a single, boring jaunt in the lot. Every one of these trails is the stuff of legend. There’s tight, east coast trails that’ll have you panting and smacking handlebars within a dozen pedal strokes, butt-buffing Sierra descents that’ll make born-agains of lifelong atheists; sweeping desert vistas and solitude; gut wrenching North Shore rock drops…there’s all that and more. Who in their right mind can argue with that?

1. McKenzie River Trail: Eugene, Oregon
Return of the Jedi meets mountain biking. A perfect, deep-forest singletrack that’ll leave both beginners and seasoned experts breathless. Distance: 26.5 miles; Ride Type: one-way shuttle; Season: June through October: Local Shop: Paul’s Bicycle Way of Life (Eugene), 541-344-4150/www.bicycleway.com

You hear people quack on and on about the McKenzie River Trail and you begin to wonder whether any single trail can really be that great. Then you ride the McKenzie River Trail and you realize that, if anything, folks have been downplaying its greatness. It’s not that the McKenzie is incredibly challenging (though the lava rock sections on the upper end are a handful).

What makes the McKenzie so great is the almost seamless flow of winding singletrack. You bob, duck and weave, hour after hour, along a perfectly buff ribbon of riverside singletrack. No painful climbs or obligatory fireroads here. It’s just one constant blur of mossy, old growth forest. When all is said and done, you’ll have descended about 1,800 feet, been witness to scores of waterfools, deep blue pools and mountain biking Hallmark moments. It’s a slight downhill, perfect, really, for middle chainring cruising. But start early, this is still an all-day ride for fit riders.

Getting There: The McKenzie River Trail isn’t particularly close to any major city. It’s a 75-mile drive from either Eugene or Bend and a good three-hour haul from Portland. Still, it’s worth the drive. You’re going to need two cars to shuttle this ride: drop one car off at the lower trailhead on State Highway 126, drive the other car about 22 miles north on Highway 126 to the turn right on the dirt road marked with the McKenzie River Trail sign. Drive a short distance and you’ll find parking on the left and the trailhead on the right.

2. Downieville Downhill: Downieville, California Pure, unadulterated adrenaline. A blur of pines and rushing rivers along a technical, downhill run in the high Sierras.
Distance: 13.6 miles; Ride Type: one-way shuttle; Season: June through October: Local Shop: Yuba Expeditions, 530-289-3010/www.yubaexpeditions.com

The Downieville Downhill has been called “the perfect trail” by many writers. While that title may be open to debate, it’s hard to argue with any trail that plunges 4,200 feet in under 14 miles. The Downieville Downhill trail runs through old growth forests, meadows a’bursting with wild flowers and, in many places, skirts the edge of cliffs just above a roaring river. If this isn’t the perfect trail, it’s damn close.

The Downieville Downhill is really three different trails linked together: Butcher Ranch; Third Divide and First Divide. Each trail has its distinct personality. You start by taking a shuttle from the little mining town of Downieville (two bike shops in town offer daily shuttle rides) to Packer Saddle.

From Packer Saddle, you ride a paved road that quickly turns to dirt and takes you directly to the Butcher Ranch trail. Butcher Ranch starts off peacefully enough (meadows, frolicking chipmunks, gurgling streams) and quickly throws a few miles of jagged rocks, small ledges and switchbacks at you. The next leg of the trail, Third Divide, is arguably the best part of the ride. It’s a blazing fast, super-smooth singletrack that swoops in and out of dense, cedar forests. The last leg of the trip, First Divide, rolls through oak forests and hugs the cliffs above Lavezolla Creek before finally dumping you off on Main Street, Downieville.

There are riders out there who sneer at the thought of shuttling. “Where,” they’d ask, “is the challenge in taking a car to the top of the mountain?” True, you’ll only climb 250 feet if you shuttle the ride, but trust us, you’ll still be plenty knackered at day’s end. The technical nature of the trail takes its own toll. Superhuman riders complete the downill run in under 45 minutes. If you want to look at pretty flowers or cool off in the many swimming holes along the trail (really, what’s the rush anyway?), plan on taking two to three hours. Bring a spare tube and plenty of tools—this trail has a habit of eating bikes.

Getting There: From Sacramento, head east on Interstate 80 until you reach Auburn. Turn north on Highway 49 and drive 30 miles to Nevada City. If you need gas, get it here. At Nevada City, the highway splits—stay on Highway 49 and drive the next slow, windy 45 miles northeast to Downieville. You can park your car in town and pick up a shuttle at either Yuba Expeditions or at Downieville Outfitters. Come early in the day. You’ll find the shuttles fill quickly with Bay Area refugees during the summer.

3. National Trail: Phoenix, Arizona Heaven and hell in a single ride: a long climb followed by a blistering, technical descent on rocky, unforgiving desert singletrack.

Distance: 30 miles; Ride Type: Out and back; Season: September through May: Local Shop: Landis Cyclery (Tempe), 480-839-9383/www.landiscyclery.com

Once upon a time (oh, okay, back in May of 2001) the engineers at Answer Manitou searched the country for a location to debut their new line of suspension forks. They were looking for a place that would test the limits of off-road suspension. They settled on South Mountain Park, just south of Phoenix. South Mountain is, simply put, home to some of the most brutal and demanding cross-country trails in the country. The National Trail is the crown jewel of the park, stretching 15 miles from the Pima Canyon trailhead in the east to the San Juan Lookout in the west.

Starting at Pima, you warm up with a mellow mile of fireroad before connecting to the National singletrack. From here, it’s a long, slow climb that never bores, due to the numerous ledges, rocks and trials-style hop ups. Yes, you’re going to suffer some (about 3,200 feet of elevation gain by day’s end), but at least you’ll be able to stop, gasp and take in the magnificent views of the Valley. After 14 miles of this sweet torture, you’ll hit the San Juan Lookout. Turn around, drop your saddle and prepare for a blistering descent that’s sure to rattle a few fillings loose. It’s basically all downhill back to Pima.

A word of caution. This is not a trail for beginners. There are plenty of points in the trail (like “the waterfall”) where even experienced riders dismount. You’re also sharing this trail with hikers and equestrians, so keep your eyes peeled for trail traffic, don’t skid, and be courteous. Access to South Mountain’s fantastic trail system hinges on mountain bikers’ good behavior. You can minimize run-ins with hikers by hitting the trail mid-week. Finally, bring lots of water as there are no places on the trail to refill. Temperatures quickly climb into the triple digits out here, even in Spring.

Getting There: From downtown Phoenix head down Central Avenue and go east on Baseline Road. Drive five and a half miles to 48th Street and turn right. Turn right onto East Pima Canyon Road. From here, it’s three quarters of a mile to the Pima trailhead.

4. Porcupine Rim: Moab, Utah The quintessential desert ride: jaw-dropping views of the desert, white-knuckle downhills and technical sections that’ll challenge the best of riders.

Distance: 21 miles (or 30 mile loop from town); Ride Type: point to point; Season: Year Round (start early, beware of summertime heat): Local Shop: Rim Cyclery, 435-259-5333/www.rimcyclery.com

Moab, Moab, Moab—more has been written about the riding in Moab, Utah than just about any other locale in the lower forty-eight. Sadly, most folks drive all the way from Chattanooga or Topeka and head straight for the Slickrock Trail. I’m not suggesting that Slickrock is a waste of time—everybody should ride it once in their life—but Porcupine Rim is the kind of trail you’ll want to ride again and again.

The ride begins with a moderate climb from the Sand Flats Road trail head. It’s about four miles to the top of Porcupine Rim (that cliff-thingy looming over Castle Valley). This is a good place to get your grub on and take in the views. The good news is that you’re now poised for about 12 miles and 3,000 feet of descending. Most of the downhill is doubletrack, but this isn’t yawn-material. There are plenty of ledges and rocks to keep you honest and alert.

The last three miles of dirt riding are on a tough singletrack. The views of the Colorado river are stunning, but don’t spend too much time staring because there are points on this trail where a slip-up could mean serious hospital time. Eventually the trail dumps you onto Highway 128 and from there it’s a mellow, six-mile road ride back to town. Plenty of opportunity to bullshit before hitting town and a nice cold beer. If you roll through Moab and only have time for one ride, this is the one to do.

Getting There: From Center and Main (in Moab), go east on Center and take a right on 400 West. Drive about half a mile and then take a left on Mills Creek Road. From there, it’s about a half mile to a stop sign. Go straight onto Sand Flats Road. You’ll soon hit a fee station (fork over a couple of bucks), and drive another seven miles until you see three large stock tanks. The trail starts here. Shuttles from town are available if you don’t want to drive. You can also choose to do this same route on your bike (making the ride a loop), but it’ll add on nine miles and 2,000 feet of climbing.

5. The Edge Loop: Fruita, Colorado The entire mountain biking experience boiled down into a single trail—moment-of-truth climbs, heart-in-your-mouth views, manic descents and a SWAT-style rappel down a cliff.
Distance: 30 miles; Ride Type: Loop; Season: Year Round (best from March to May and September through October): Local Shop: Over the Edge Sports, 970-858-7220/www.gj.net/~edge/

Let’s get one thing straight: if you’ve come to Fruita looking for a mellow ride—something that offers pleasure without pain, this one isn’t for you. There are plenty of trails in the same Book Cliffs area, TK of town, that feature, thrill-a-minute, rolling singletrack, guaranteed to please everyone from beginners to experts. If that’s what you’re after, try Prime Cut, Chutes and Ladders or Zippedy Doo Da.

Why then did we pick The Edge Loop over all these great Fruita trails? Because this trail embodies everything that is great about mountain biking: climbing, descending, solitude and the one element that every cubicle-dweller craves: adventure. The Epic Loop has it all.

Take off from the parking area off of Road 18. From here it’s a 14-mile, mostly-jeep road climb. You’re looking at about 3,800 feet of climbing to the top of the Book Cliffs. Sorry, there’s no way to sweeten that particular turd, except to say that the view from the cliff top is stunning: a humbling panorama of Colorado’s Grand Valley and snow-capped Rockies.

Time to refuel, stretch those quads and prepare for the good stuff. What follows next is near downhill perfection—a mix of wide open fireroad and tight singletrack descending. Eventually, after much hooping and hollering, you’ll come to the Loop’s famed rappel down a waterfall. Lower your bike on the rope and work your way down. From there its more singletrack and some sand back to the trailhead.

The Edge Loop is the essence of adventure. Accordingly, you need to take some precautions. Start early in the day and plan on six, steady hours of riding. Pick up a map at Over the Edge Sports in Fruita and take plenty of water, food and tools because once you start this ride, there’s no way to call it quits. Finally, don’t ride this trail following a rainstorm. The mud up here can turn 23-pound hardtails into 60-pound boat anchors. People who have been caught in storms while riding this loop have been known to ditch their bikes in desperation and walk out.

Getting There: From Grand Junction take I-70 west to the town of Fruita. Once in Fruita, go east on Aspen until you hit Maple road. Take Maple north to N 3/10 Road and take a right. Follow this road to 18 Road, and take a left. Follow 18 Road north. Once the pavement ends, continue for another 4.3 miles to the parking area.

6. Upper Oil Can: North Vancouver, BC One of the North Shore’s best trails. Rock faces, ladders, log rides and more of what has made the Shore famous.
Distance: 14 kilometers (it’s in Canada, after all); Ride Type: out and back; Season: Spring through Fall; Local Shop: Deep Cove Bikes, 604-929-1918/www.covebike.com Before you start writing a letter complaining that there’s a Canadian trail in an article about America’s 10 Best Trails, simmer down for a second. Look, Canada is part of North America. That in itself makes Upper Oil Can a shoe-in for this feature. Besides, the riding north of the U.S. border has changed the way people in the United States, from San Diego to Palm Beach, ride their bikes. It’s a little late to ignore the trails up there.

Having said that, the famed North Shore of Vancouver, British Columbia, is home to three excellent mountains: Cypress, Seymour and Mount Fromme. Upper Oil Can is located on Fromme, within spitting distance of other well-known trails such as Pink Starfish and Air Supply.

Upper Oil Can is not the hardest trail on the shore. Not by a long shot. Upper Oil Can, however, is one of the best built and maintained trails in the area. Trail builders, such as Pete Morin, have done an incredible job of armoring the trail with rock and designing smooth transitions. Upper Oil Can is a thing of beauty as far as engineering goes. Of course, any wet trail full of rock steeps and wet ladder bridges is also a thing of pain. This trail is no walk in the park. Expert riders will still be challenged by the skinnies and ladder bridges, but intermediate riders can also give it a go as the trail has enough bail out, “chicken lines” around the tougher stunts to accommodate the less-skilled amongst us.

Getting There: From Highway 1 in North Vancouver, continue two miles past the Mount Seymour Parkway exit and take the Lynn Road exit. Turn right and head north (about a mile) to Mountain Highway. You’ll see a Starbucks at the Mountain Highway intersection. Go left on Mountain Highway and drive as close to the top (the yellow gate) as you can given the parking restrictions.

In the past, most riders parked on McNair Street and rode past the gate, but residents complained about mountain bikers taking up their parking spots. Consequently, you can’t park on McNair unless you live there. To get to Upper Oil Can, ride the gravel road about five kilometers beyond the yellow gate. You can count switchbacks as a guide: the sign for Upper Oil Can pops up a bit after the sixth switchback. 7. Tsali Left Loop: Nantahala National Forest, North Carolina Mother Natures’ version of a roller coaster ride. Baby-butt smooth singletrack, high speeds and a little bit of Smoky Mountain Zen.
Distance: 12 miles; Ride Type: Loop; Season: Spring through Fall; Local Shop: Nantahala Outdoor Center, 828-488-2175/www.noc.com

The eastern states have a well-deserved reputation for technical trails, and there a plenty of rock and root-infested trails in Western North Carolina that would do that stereotype proud. Pisgah, in particular, is renowned for its bloody-shin and bravado trails. The 45 miles of trails in the Tsali Recreation Area, however, are birds of a decidedly different feather.

Tsali is famous for its velvet-smooth singletrack network. The Left Loop is probably the most technical of these trails, but by east coast standards, it’s still buttah. The trail weaves up and down along the edge of picture-perfect Lake Fontana. Massive berms slingshot you through corners and, aside from the occasional downed tree, it’s all speed and grace. It’s the kind of trail that makes life-long converts of first-time mountain bikers.

You can camp at Tsali, but if you’ve only got one day to ride, pay attention: Left Loop and Right Loop (another great trail) are generally open to mountain bikers Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Of course, if you do wind up in Tsali on a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday, you can still ride Tsali’s Thompson and Mouse Branch Loops.

Getting There: From Asheville take Interstate 40 West and exit on U.S. Highway 74 West to Dillsboro. Turn right on Highway 28 and follow it for five minutes, keeping an eye out for the “Tsali Recreation Area” sign. Turn right here and follow the gravel road to the parking area at the bottom.

8. Fisher Creek: Ketchum, Idaho High mountain escape. One of the premier rides in the post card-perfect Sawtooth Mounains.
Distance: 18 miles; Ride Type: loop; Season: Late Spring through Summer; Local Shop: Durance Cycle Works (Ketchum), 208-726-7693/www.durance.com

Picking just one trail from among the miles and miles of perfect Sun Valley singletrack is a challenge. Nevertheless, we decided on Fisher Creek. Though it has a fair share of fireroad mixed in, the views and the incledible singletrack descent more than make up for it.

Though this isn’t as technically a challenging ride as many of the others on this list, the roughly nine-mile warm up climb and the altitude (over 8,000 feet) add a definite degree of challenge. The ride starts climbing (albeit gradually) right from the parking lot on Fisher Creek Road.

As far as fireroad climbs go, this is certainly one of the most beautiful as the first six miles takes you past beaver ponds and ancient cabins. The last half mile of Fisher Creek Road steepens considerably and at this point you’ll probably be wondering if you shouldn’t have taken a spinning class during the winter after all.

When you get to the top (about a 1,500 foot elevation gain), the views of the snow-capped Sawtooths and verdant meadows compensate for the climbing. The real reason for riding this trail becomes immediately clear as you soon hit one of the finest, twistiest pieces of singletrack on Gods green earth. Though, stopping along the way is probably the last thing you’ll dream of doing, the views might just be worth it.

Eventually the singletrack drops you onto asphalt (Highway 75) and from here it’s about a one-mile descent back to the car.

Getting There: From Sun Valley/Ketchum, drive north on Highway 75 over Galena Pass towards Stanley. Continue north to Fisher Creek Road and park in the Sawtooth National Recreation Are parking lot (you’ll ride from here).

9. Plantation Trail: Davis, West Virginia Technical, technical and then a little bit more technical. One of the most challenging cross-country trails in the country.
Distance: 8.5 miles; Ride Type: loop; Season: Spring through Fall; Local Shop: Blackwater Bikes, 304-259-5286/www.blackwaterbikes.com

The Plantation trail is the antithesis of North Carolina’s Tsali. Where Tsali is fast and effortless, this Appalachian trail might best be described as “one really long rock garden.” This is not a trail for the meek. Like marriage or a chick flick film festival, the Plantation Trail requires commitment and a heavy dose of faith. The rewards, however, are plenty as the trail takes you through dense thickets of red spruce, mountain laurel and ferns—one rock and root-drop at a time. Plantation is also frequently wet, with plenty of creek crossings that better resemble river crossings after a good storm.

A few words of advice…Though this isn’t a particularly long and there’s not a ton of climbing, rag-dolling from one obstacle to the next is either a fine game of physical chess or one long, tortuous mind f-ck. Give yourself plenty of time to finish. Second, disc brakes are not required, but come in real handy as this part of the Monongahela National Forest receives up to 50 inches of rain per year: you can wear through a set of V-brake pads in no time on this trail.

A full-suspension bike is also a good idea. I know, some of you will read that and immediately flip me the bird, but be warned, plenty of hardened retro-grouches have found their technological Jesus as they broke the sound barrier, plunging headlong down Plantation’s many V-shaped luges. At the very least, come prepared with a map and repair kit.

Getting There: From Davis, take Route 32 south towards Canaan Valley. You’ll see the trailhead about three miles later on the right (it’s clearly signed). The trail eventually peters out and T-bones into Canaan Loop road. You’ll take Canaan Loop Road back to Route 32 and your car.

10. Finger Lakes Trail: Letchworth State Park, New York One of the best, yet least-known trails in the country. Riding the rim of the “Grand Canyon of the East”.
Distance: Up to 44 miles; Ride Type: out and back; Season: June 1st-October 31st; Local Shop: Campus Wheelworks (Buffalo), 716-881-3613/www.campuswheelworks.com

Though you’ll rarely find a description of this trail in any guide book, rest assured, this 22-mile slice of singletrack ranks right up there with the best trails in the country.

Yes, it’s really that good.

The trail begins on the east side of 14,350-acre Letchworth State Park and runs along the rim of the 600-foot deep Genesee River Gorge. The locals bill this place as “the Grand Canyon of the East”. While I think Pennsylvania is also home to its own “Grand Canyon of the East” (and I know the real Grand Canyon is much bigger than either), I have to admit the view from the rim is mind blowing.

The trail itself is a fast, rock and root-snarled singletrack that skirts the gorge rim and constantly dips in and out of ravines. Up and down, up and down—it makes a two-hour Tae Bo class feel like a Greek Orthodox funeral. There are also plenty of downed logs and blind switchbacks that’ll keep expert riders on their toes. The entire trail runs through dense forest, so you if you’re sporting sunglasses, ditch the dark lenses for something in yellow or orange. You’ll rarely see the sun.

The Finger Lakes Trail actually spans the whole of New York and is generally off-limits to mountain bikers. This 22-mile section is an exception. Local mountain bike clubs petitioned authorities to open this section to riders in exchange for plenty of trail work and good behavior. As a result, a few rules need to be observed. First, the trail is only open to riders from June through October. Second, the trail doesn’t drain well, so mountain bikers are not permitted to ride following a rain. If in doubt, check out the WNYMBA website (www.wnymba.org) for the latest trail conditions and updates. Finally, don’t skid or cut the switchbacks—access here is tenuous, so use your brain.

Getting There: From Buffalo take Route 400 south to 20A. Go south on 36 to Mt. Morris. Take a right at Highway 408 (this is at an intersection) and look for the signs for Mt. Morris Dam. Go right on Mt. Morris Dam Road and park at the trailhead on your left. Most folks start here, ride till they bonk and then head back to the trailhead.